Olivier Theyskens may have been unceremoniously let go from his position as designer at Nina Ricci, yet he delivered a full fledged fashion spectacle. Though the company wanted to take the label in a more commercial direction, he refused to compromise.
Without discussing the situation, he created a powerful collection that was able to speak for itself. Under the most undesirable circumstance, Theyskens presented one of the most defining collections of his career. It was certainly a bittersweet highlight of Paris Fashion Week this March.
"I was thinking of a nocturnal mood. Something moonlit-a bit magical," he said in an interview with style.com.
The fall collection was a Ziggy Stardust space odyssey. It was a visual feast of extreme proportions and brilliant colors without sacrificing sophistication and elaborate construction.
An abbreviated black dress was given visual detail with potent blue embellishments rising up from the hemline.
A black suit featured the same embellishments. The jacket had satin lapels and the pants were loose to give motion. Bright pink embellishments covered the ankle of the pants to the shoes. It looked like the model had walked on the surface of another planet.
The towering platform ankle boots were amazements in themselves. The already tall models were so high that it looked as though they were hovering. The shoes were made in fabrics and colors complimentary to each look. Most of the shoes did not have a heel, and the few that did were suspended mid-air.
Modern space helmets were seen throughout the show. The hats were slung low over the nose, with only a small strip revealing an intent gaze. A glittering hat was paired with a loose black dress that was covered in sequined crescent moons. Purple latex tights and platform boots beneath the thigh grazing dress looked like a futuristic uniform.
A bright pink long-sleeved turtleneck dress was cut short, with a geometric satin overlay around the hips slashed to reveal a thigh. A matching orb-clustered necklace floated around the neck.
An oversized gray jacket had a curved, peaked shoulder. The exaggerated collar, pockets and buttons aided in balancing the shoulder. The jacket was paired with a thin, fluid pair of pants in the same shade. Although both were highly stylized, they were no less wearable.
Double breasted overcoats were reinvented through Theysken's eyes. Instead of the jacket being evenly proportioned on both sides, the left side of the black jacket had a severe cut that pointed upward to the face. This caused the right side to stick out to the bottom left side. This play on proportion denied the sides from buttoning evenly, giving the jacket a unique look.
A purple jacket that looked like the surface of a planet shined. The same unique proportion was utilized; only the cut caused the double buttons to shift closer together until there was only one toward the bottom. A dark pair of stovepipe pants was paired with this space age jacket.
Leather jackets also received a futuristic finish. A shiny black leather jacket was worn with dark pants that fit loosely around the hips and tapered inward toward the ankles. Three ridges added visual interest to the bottom of each side of the jacket.
The evening gowns signaled the closing of the show. Olivier has been known to envision gowns that are both beautiful and meticulously constructed. Along with the rest of the collection, there was a definite emphasis on strong colors and silhouettes.
A bright blue, textured gown stopped near the knees, yet toward the back, flowed to the ground. A piece of fabric curved up around one hip creating three dimensional interest.
When an intense red gown with a strong shoulder and satin folding and flowing around the thigh to the ground appeared on the runway, it was met by a spontaneous round of applause. To say the least, this does not happen often, as the fashion elite do not stroke anyone's ego with an early applause.
The closing look was a dark star spectacle. The gown twisted around one shoulder and revealed one leg before flowing out to the ground. The dress had sheer sleeves that were sequined along the arm.
The final dress of the impressive 40 look event showcased all of the elements of a perfect collection by a designer who will undoubtedly move forward and continue to create collections filled with innovation. Olivier Theyskens was able to transport our minds above the clouds and past the stars; a testament to his talent.



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